July 2025 | Saltbeard Quince Gin – Garden Street Gin Club
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July 2025 | Saltbeard Quince Gin

June 26, 2025

July 2025 Featured Gin of the Month

Written by Kat Chrisoulis

Tucked amongst the vineyards and undulating hills of South Australia’s Barossa Valley, Saltbeard Distillery is a quiet achiever – small in size, but big in spirit. It’s here, in a region renowned for bold reds and long lunches, that John Trutwin set out to craft gins that reflect the season, the place, and a certain signature scruffy charm.

That charm belonged in part to Otto – John’s loyal schnauzer. More than a mascot, Otto was a constant companion by John’s side, and now a lasting legacy of the Saltbeard brand.

This month, we’re sharing an exclusive first look at the hotly-anticipated Quince Gin; John’s latest creation. Built around earthy quince, gentle spice and soft citrus, this instant classic captures the comfort of a spectacular South Australian autumn – and arrives just in time for Christmas in July.

About the Distillery

Back in the early 1990s, John was travelling across Europe and North America as part of the Australian Bobsleigh Team. While billeted with a German family in Cologne, he met Herr Meurer – a patient, methodical man who distilled a traditional grain spirit called ‘Korn’ from a small still in his garden shed. “He was kind and patient enough to provide me with an introduction to and education in distillation,” John recalls. The lesson stuck – not just the mechanics of distilling, but the care, precision and quiet satisfaction of crafting something from scratch.

That experience sat in the back of his  mind as John moved through three distinctly different careers – hospitality, the arts, and aviation – spending nearly a decade in each. But it wasn’t until his brother-in-law, a winemaker turned distiller, invited him into a working distillery for a tour and a hands-on session that the spark reignited. The smell, the sound, the sense of possibility – it was too good to ignore. Before he knew it, John was enrolled in the University of Adelaide’s “Fundamentals of Spirit Production” course and building plans for his own operation.

As the idea took shape and his dream grew legs, John didn’t look far for the right location to bring it to life. Leasing out a shared space alongside another established distillery, Saltbeard makes the most of a top-notch fitout in the Barossa Valley – a region he calls home in every sense of the word. “I could go on and on about the Barossa and Clare Valleys, the Flinders Ranges, McLaren Vale, the Festival of Arts and WOMAD… what’s not to love?”

From day one, John’s focus has been on building flavour from the ground up. Each recipe is developed in a 50L pilot still – aptly named “The Little Still” – before graduating to the 300L or, when demand calls, the towering 3000L “Big Still”. That scale-up process is never simple, especially when fresh fruit is involved. But for John, the goal has always been the same: spirits that are honest, expressive, and never overworked. And the results speak for themselves… but we’re getting ahead of ourselves.

When it came time to name the brand, it was a no-brainer. Saltbeard was him and Otto – two scruffy companions (his words, not ours) with matching salt-and-pepper beards, and a love for good gin. John wanted the name to reflect both of them – their bond, their personalities, and their place in the process. “At one point we might’ve gone with Blackbeard,” John laughs, “but we’d both earned our salty stripes.” Of the two, though, John declares it was always going to be Otto who had the face and personality to become the figurehead of the brand. Loyal, distinctive, and just a little bit quirky, Otto remains the heart of Saltbeard.

Though Otto has sadly passed, his legacy lives on in the distillery and in the brand itself. His face – full of character, mischief and quiet wisdom – graces every bottle, immortalised in a series of illustrations by John’s brother-in-law, Adelaide artist Jacob Logos. “We wanted the portraits to be freewheeling and slightly obscure,” John explains, “while still showing Otto for those who took the time to look a little longer.” Each label captures a different side of him – sometimes cheeky, sometimes dignified – but always Otto.

Saltbeard doesn’t have a tasting room to drop by for a visit just yet, but the distillery itself is very much alive with activity. Every batch is crafted surrounded by grapevines and the quiet hum of Barossa country – with John at the helm, slicing fruit, testing cuts, and adjusting recipes with the kind of care that only comes from doing it yourself.

And it’s from this quiet corner of the Barossa – part vineyard, part workshop, part tribute – that Saltbeard’s latest creation, a deliciously seasonal Quince Gin, has taken shape.

About the Gin

The inspiration for Saltbeard’s Quince Gin came about in the most practical of ways. Each year, the quince tree in John’s backyard produces an impressive crop – enough to weigh down its branches and turn a simple walk down the garden path into a careful navigation. One season, after several close calls and a few mild head knocks from overhanging fruit, it became clear the quinces needed to be put to good use.

At the time, John had been searching for a concept that captured the feeling of autumn – something warming and generous, but still bright and clean. The flavour of baked quince with cinnamon immediately came to mind, bringing with it a sense of comfort and seasonality that felt like the right direction. He connected with a local grower who also had a surplus of quinces perfect for distilling – small or slightly misshapen fruit that wouldn’t make it to market, but had all the flavour that John was looking for.

Turning that concept into a finished gin, however, was anything but simple. Quince is a notoriously tough fruit to work with – dense, waxy, and reluctant to give up its flavour. John ended up preparing what felt like a neverending harvest by hand, slicing his way through every batch to make sure it was just right. And while sourcing and cutting the fruit was a job in itself, it didn’t end there. After distillation, there was still the matter of hauling the soaked quince pulp back out of the still – a task that is no doubt as fun as it sounds.

The final result is a gin that is layered but easy-going. Juniper forms the backbone, while quince takes the lead. Cinnamon, coriander seed, pink peppercorns, and orange peel all play supporting roles, and angelica brings a grounding depth. On the nose, the quince is soft and aromatic, with spice and citrus sitting just behind. The palate is smooth and fruit-forward, with a gentle warming spice that rounds out into a dry, clean finish.

Compared to his flagship Grapefruit Gin – which needed a gentle, herbaceous tonic counterpart to let its citrus notes shine – the Quince Gin was built with a bolder G&T in mind. From the outset, John designed this gin to hold its own against his favourite mixer: Mischief Brew’s #1 Tonic. Bright and citrus-forward, with a good dose of cinchona bark, it lifts the gin’s natural warmth and draws out the cinnamon and spice. We’ve paired it with a garnish of crisp green apple and a cinnamon stick – a simple serve that feels just right for the cooler months. It’s the kind of G&T made for slower evenings, fireside sipping, and maybe leaning into a little Christmas in July. And if there happens to be a splash of poached quince syrup handy, it certainly wouldn’t go astray.

Other Products in the Range

While the Quince Gin is the newest chapter in the Saltbeard story, the rest of the range is no less considered – each spirit crafted with the same balance of intuition and precision that defines John’s quality approach.

His Grapefruit Gin, featured in February 2024 here at Garden Street, pairs Riverland citrus with a backbone of juniper and coriander for a crisp, refreshing profile. It captures the spirit of an Australian summer – bright, laid-back, and easy to enjoy.

Beyond gin, Saltbeard has also leaned into an ever-popular classic that continues to shine – Limoncello. This sun-kissed, Amalfi-inspired liqueur channels the brightness of fresh lemons with a smooth, citrus-laced sweetness that works beautifully as a digestif or in summery spritzes. It’s fresh, flavourful, and just a little indulgent.

For those who prefer their spirits pure and clean, Saltbeard’s Vodka is all about restraint and clarity – a smooth, subtle base that plays well with just about anything.

Looking ahead, we’re excited to share that there’s plenty on the horizon, too. John’s currently tinkering with recipes for a London Dry Gin and a Mandarin Gin, each offering a new expression of his favourite styles.

But the project that has him most excited? A handmade, special-edition ceramic bottle. It’s a tricky one to get right, but early tests have been promising. If all goes to plan, the result will be a beautifully crafted bottle designed to live on long after the last sip – a true keepsake for Saltbeard fans.

So whether you’re welcoming back a Garden Street favourite or meeting Saltbeard for the first time, this Quince Gin brings a taste of South Australian autumn to your glass – just in time for Christmas in July, and perfect for toasting the cosier side of the season. Cheers!

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